Chef Hugo
Recently named “Chef of the Year” at the prestigious Houston Culinary Awards sponsored by My Table magazine, Hugo Ortega was born in Mexico City, the oldest of a family of eight children. At 15, he began working at one of several Procter & Gamble factories in Mexico to help support his family. “In Mexico, we have a saying, ‘If you’re born poor, you’ll die poor,’” says the eldest Ortega. “I knew I wanted more from my life.”
In 1984, Ortega immigrated to Houston with a cousin and a friend. He had no contacts or job leads, but was determined to make a new life for himself. “My family has always had a strong work ethic,” he says. “And I strongly believe that if you work hard, people will respect you.”
Slowly, step-by-step, Ortega began to set down roots in the bustling oil capitol. He shared an apartment with several friends, and followed up on leads for jobs in nearby restaurants. He was happy to find his first job, as a dishwasher, at a popular bar and nightclub. While the pay was meager, Ortega grabbed at the opportunity to learn the fundamentals of the restaurant business and find contacts to help him improve his English.
Later, he moved on to a downtown Houston restaurant as busboy during
the day and, at night, he cleaned the floors in office buildings to
supplement his income. “I was fortunate to have two steady-paying
jobs,” recalls Ortega. When his friends in Houston planned to
move to California, he opted to stay in Houston. With an unexpected
turn of bad luck, Ortega found himself without work.
“It was a very bad time for me,” Ortega remembers. “Most
of my friends had moved away, I was out of work and afraid that I wouldn’t
be able to pay my rent.” A friend took Hugo to Backstreet
Cafe, where he found employment as a dishwasher/busboy.
It was at Backstreet
Cafe that, according to the chef, “the great opportunity
of my life came.”
Tracy Vaught, owner of
Backstreet Cafe and Prego,
was impressed with Ortega’s positive attitude and willingness
to learn. She thought he showed a great deal of promise and offered
him a position on the line in the kitchen. He worked diligently, familiarizing
himself with every aspect of the kitchen and was soon promoted to the
kitchen at Prego,
where he worked side-by-side with Executive Chef John Watt. Impressed
by his hard work and dedication, Vaught offered to enroll Ortega in
the Culinary Arts program at Houston Community College. Ortega jumped
in with both feet.
Immediately, the student chef impressed his instructors with his zeal
to learn and his zest for work. Culinary Services Department Head John
Abercrombie says he has always been impressed by Ortega’s intensity,
dedication and creativity. “Hugo is a great all-around talent
who receives great pleasure from his work,” says Abercrombie.
“He is a group leader who leads by example, and we are very proud
of his accomplishments.”
Ortega graduated from HCC’s Culinary Arts program in November
1992 and assumed the role of chef at Backstreet
Cafe; he became executive chef in 1995. The talented
chef has made two guest chef appearance at the prestigious James Beard
House in New York City. In 1999, Ortega was named “Up-and-Coming
Chef of the Year,” by My Table magazine; and one of the
city’s top chefs in Inside Houston magazine. Among his
professional affiliations, Ortega is a member of the national organization
Chefs Collaborative 2000.
In July 2002, Ortega and Vaught opened a third restaurant concept, Hugo’s,
serving Authentic Regional Mexican Cuisine. With the opening of Hugo’s,
Ortega has journeyed full-circle to rediscover the true foods of his
homeland. “This is the restaurant that I have dreamed of opening
ever since I started my career in the restaurant business, even though
I never realized it,” says Ortega. “I left Mexico for America
as a teenager in search of a better life. Even though I was far from
our home in Mexico City, I always carried Mexico in my heart.”
Hugo’s was named “Restaurant
of the Year” in 2003 by both the Houston Press and My
Table magazines. Ortega and Tracy Vaught were married in 1994,
and in February 1997 they had their first child, Sophia Elizabeth.

